Sunday, September 30, 2012

Heater core repair, day 8

Work log

  • Drilled out two new holes in the steering wheel aluminum using a rechargeable DeWalt drill
  • THIS TOOK SEVERAL HOURS x_x
  • Had to wait one or two times for rechargeable batteries to recharge
  • In retrospect, seems easier to drill out and re-tap puller holes...but did not have parts available to do so
  • Put in the hook puller bolts
  • Successfully pulled the steering wheel...this took a lot of oomph...finally popped off! : o )
  • Paused to celebrate moment of triumph
  • Taped the clock spring
  • Removed the clock spring and let it hang
  • Tested the resistance between connector C269 and the main light switch
  • Did not really find anything conclusive
  • Cut existing wire #7 between connector and close to main light switch
  • Spliced-in new wire from C269 pin #7 to the main light switch red wire to bypass the existing wire
  • Headlamps do not come on when battery cable re-attached : o P
  • Not sure how to interpret this result
  • Replaced everything but the air bag
  • Washed car exterior
  • Shook out car mats
  • Replaced air filter
  • Pulled the fuse for the headlamps under the car hood...that seems like a reasonable fix until I can identify whether the multi-function switch represents the problem
  • As a side note, the radio display seems OK, now
Next steps
  • Pick-n-Pull sells part "Switch Headlight/Wiper" for $13
  • They also seem to sell part "Steering Wheel" for $16
  • Figure out what steering wheels work on our car
  • Miscellaneous Parts needed:
    • A few non-stripped dash bolts
    • Rear center console
  • Pull the part(s) after work someday in the near future
  • Tools needed:
    • Steering wheel puller
    • Socket set (side bolts x 2)
    • 15mm wrench (steering wheel bolt x 1)
    • Box cutter (cut zip ties)
    • Phillips-head screwdriver (remove clock-spring, upper & lower shroud)
  • Bring in car to mechanic and ask for coolant flush before re-attaching hoses to heater core
  • Ask for advice on the headlamp wiring 
  • Ask where the unattached vacuum hose goes
  • Zip-tie the speedometer cable to the battery cage

Saturday, September 29, 2012

Heater core repair, day 7

Work log
  • Replaced the headlamp relay with a new part from a local auto parts store. 
  • Headlamps still stay on.
  • Purchased a steering wheel remover.
  • Stripped the puller bolt holes while attempting to get the steering wheel off x_x
    • Per the puller instructions, I put a small cylinder over the bolt hole, then put the middle bolt into the small cylinder
    • I should have put the bolt into the hole, then put the small cylinder on top of that
    • Options:
      • Drill out and retap the puller bolt holes
      • Replace the steering wheel
      • Tack weld a puller bolt and get the steering wheel off,
      • "here is the quick way to take one off... (i do it at work, instead of getting a puller).. unplug the connectors from the clockspring, take the main bolt out, that holds the steering wheel to the steering shaft. put the bolt back in about 3/4 of the way in... sit straight in the seat, plant your feet in the floorboard, and pull/wiggle the steering wheel back and forth up and down with some force ( dont go crazy, just real frim steady pressure) after a few seconds itll come loose, and the loose bolt will keep the wheel from flying off and hitting you in the face. then take the bolt back out and take the wheel off." (via)
  • Re-installed the glove box
  • Attempted to replace the air bag module
  • Restoring power sounds the horn x_x
Next steps
  • Drill out new holes
  • Try using just the bolts, ala this link.
  • Drill out the holes a bit bigger and use the hooked puller bolts

Friday, September 28, 2012

Heater core repair, days 4-6

Work log - Wednesday
Work log - Thursday
  • Continued reviewing the Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual.
  • Performed a few basic tests in an attempt to narrow down the location of the issue:
    • Disconnecting the headlamp 30A fuse : no headlamp 
    • Disconnecting the headlamp relay : no headlamp
    • Disconnecting connector C269 : no headlamp
  • Labeled a few connectors and wires with a Sharpie permanent marker to keep things straight
  • Connector C269, on the steering column, represents the last connector before the multi-function switch (that is, the steering column switch you use to select off/parking lights/head lights). 
    • One C269 wire goes to the parking lamp relay and another wire goes to the headlamp relay
    • Depending on the position of the multi-function switch, current either does or does not flow through the relays, which in turn control the flow of current to the respective lamps. 
  • If I have connector C269 connected, I can use the high/low switch to get low/high beams just fine. So that switch seems OK. 
  • The hi/lo switch should get power downstream from the headlamp relay, after the Off/Parkinglamps/Headlamps switch activates it. 
  • However, in this case, it does not seem to matter what position I turn the Off/Parkinglamps/Headlamps switch to--the relay powers the headlamps. 
Work log - Friday
  • Continued reviewing the Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual.
  • I would suspect the headlamp relay itself was stuck in the closed position, except for a few facts:
    • The headlamps turn off when I remove connector C269
    • If the headlamp relay was stuck, it should not matter, and it would still deliver power to the headlamps, if I am thinking correctly. 
  • I have shifted my working theory to a ground short in the red wire #7 from the multi-function switch (a.k.a. main light switch) to pin #7 in connector C269 (male side).
    • That represents the wire which current flows through to activate the relay. 
    • A ground short in that wire would seem to allow current to flow through one side of the relay, which would trip the other side of the relay and allow current to flow through to the headlamps. 
    • And a ground short would seem to ignore the setting of the multi-function switch. 
  • Replacing this wire seems to imply removing the steering wheel to get at the multi-function switch
Next steps
  • I will need to borrow a steering wheel puller from a local parts store
  • It turns out Section 17 of the Helm 1996 Escort/Tracer Shop Manual contains pinpoint tests:
    • 17-01-11, Pinpoint Test B: Headlamps on Continuously
    • 17-01-12, Headlamp switch wire resistance table
  • The pinpoint tests largely seem to confirm I am on the right track with my current working theory


Wednesday, September 26, 2012

Heater core repair, day three

Finished the bulk of putting everything back together. Remaining: glove box, left bottom panel, kick plates.

And my lights will not turn off....

Work log
  • Worked from 6:00-11:30 p.m.
  • Able to work after sunset after I remembered my Petzl headlamp x_x Doh.
  • I decided to detach the dash once more to double-check I had not missed a connector on the passenger side
  • Turns out I had, so I am glad I did
  • Re-attached dash and secured with four bolts to the tunnel
  • Re-attached blower motor connector--have to remember to troubleshoot due to corroded lead
  • Re-attached center console
    • Had a lot of trouble re-attaching the cigarette lighter connectors
    • Shorter wires, which meant I had to hold the center console with one hand and reconnect with the other
    • Decided to re-attach the HVAC control cables later
    • Took quite a bit of trial and error to figure out how to route the HVAC control cables, but finally figured it out: the left side has a cable channel and the right side just goes over the heater box tube
  • Vacuum connectors took a bit of looking at before realizing it does not matter what way they go on (I think)
  • Re-attached the instrument cluster
    • Had to really yank on the speedometer cable to get it back through the firewall 
    • Then I had pulled it too far, not leaving me enough room to re-attach to the instrument cluster
    • Finally got it just right
    • Then realized I could pull the speedometer cable from the engine compartment and simultaneously pull the instrument cluster into place : o )
  • Re-attached the cluster bezel
  • At this point, realized I had forgotten to re-attach a little metal plate on the right side of the cluster bezel and the left side of the center console
  • Detached the bezel, added the plate, re-attached the bezel
  • At this point I felt a shock: the rear of the steering column had detached from the mount plate
    • Taking the advice of a FEOA post on a possible shortcut, I had removed the steering column support bracket
    • This allowed the steering column to drop freely all the way to the floor
    • Unfortunately, in my moving the steering column back and forth during repairs, I ended up detaching the steering column from the mount bracket x_x
    • I felt a bit of relief after realizing I had not sheared off any metal bits
    • I had bent one of the brackets, however...eventually I bent it back into shape with a pair of pliers
    • I CANNOT TELL YOU HOW MUCH TIME I SPENT ON THIS
    • Each of the two brackets has a clip
    • The steering column weighs a bit
    • It swings awkwardly due to weight and cables
    • The clips love to detach when attempting to put the brackets onto the mount plate
    • The clips love to detach when tightening the 10mm nuts
    • The brackets love to shift when tightening the 10mm nuts
    • The brackets love to come loose after tightening one side
    • I tried re-attaching from outside the car with a 10mm wrench
    • Then I tried re-attaching while attempting to hold up the steering wheel with one hand
    • Then I tried re-attaching the support bracket
    • After this, I got on my back and stuck my head under the dash
    • I FINALLY figured out a way to tighten the bracket/clips to my satisfaction
      • Screw two steering column support bolts loosely into the dash
      • Get the clips onto the brackets
      • Swing the brackets into place
      • Tighten with a 10mm socket with an extension
    • I think this represents the solution anyway...I kid you not this took me 90 minutes to resolve x_x
  • Re-attached the clutch pedal chain I had detached while messing with the steering column
  • After this point, I re-attached the steering column shroud, the middle and rear console, re-attached the front seat
  • I re-attached the HVAC control cables--will test out when I drive the car
  • Re-attached the negative battery cable
  • Noticed my head lamps come on! : o (
    • Does not matter what position the light switch is on...they still are on
    • Turning the light switch does turn on/off the running lamps
    • Fog lamps go on/off OK
  • Started the engine: success
  • Stripped some wire and twisted together the wires I had cut, then wrapped with electrical tape
  • Head lamps still light up when the negative battery cable applied
  • Noticed some loose tubes under the hood
  • Figured out two of them but not a third one, a vacuum hose...cannot see where it goes, and it seems pretty long : o P
  • Cleaned up
Next steps
  • Figure out why head lamps stay on all the time
    • Probably a limited number of things which I could have messed up
    • It seems like the head lamps get power without considering the steering column control
    • I guess I may have to bust out the electrical guide to refresh my memory on what I did when I wired the fog wiring
  • Figure out where missing vacuum tube goes
  • Likely something to do with the wires I cut...but maybe something else?
  • Replace glove box
  • Replace kick panels
  • Replace lower driver side panel
  • Replace side sail panels
  • Clean 

Monday, September 24, 2012

Heater core repair, day two


Began the process of putting everything back today.

Work log

  • Worked from ~6:00-7:15 p.m., at which point I called it a night on account of darkness (shaded driveway means cooler but gets dark faster).
  • Took some time to properly re-route the wiring for the fog lamp to the fog lamp switch...will have to re-solder another wire, but worth it, for me, to do it in a cleaner fashion
  • Looked inside the A/C Evaporator Core Case (#19850) at the evaporator core, which looks similar to the fins of the heater core : o ) Want to read more about this and learn how it works.
  • Looked inside the heater box (HVAC Heater Assembly, #18478) and played with the controls to watch how the various pieces work together to route air
    • The hot-cold control seems to simply move a cover up or down over the heater core, which allows more/less hot air into the cabin
    • The control on the other side has several different positions, each of which lift/close various flaps within the heater box : o )
    • Getting interested in the engineering behind all the various parts really represents the most time-consuming part of the process, for me ; o )
  • Re-installed the heater box, almost forgetting to re-attach the Heater Core to Dash Panel Seal (#18529), which I had left on the passenger mat : o P
  • Re-attached the HVAC Outlet Duct Extension Center (#18C505) after rinsing out coolant residue and drying
  • Re-attached the left and right Windshield Defroster Nozzle Connectors (#18A435) to the heater box
  • Dusted off a lot of the interior pieces with a shop towel
  • Re-installed the dash into the cabin 
  • Re-attached the blue cable and companion electrical connectors to the dash
  • Bolted on the two driver/passenger bolts and the three under-windshield bolts.
  • Made sure to re-attach the dash to the left and right Windshield Defroster Nozzles (#18490)
  • Made sure to route the instrument cluster electrical connectors and the speedometer cable through the proper holes in the dash
  • Managed to get everything back on without cracking the dash any further....
  • Feeling paranoid I am missing something, or I will miss a connector, or forget to route it properly and have to retrace my steps...I think that probably seems normal though, the first time. Next time (next time!?) I will probably feel more confident and miss something due to lack of attention ; o )
  • Almost forgot: I noticed my rear-center console, which covers the emergency brake, broke a plastic piece inside of it. x_x
  • At the same time, I noticed an unused connector under the rear-center console which the emergency brake had sheared two of the wires in half : o P I wish I knew the purpose of the wires!
  • Noticed the air box next to the blower motor...I want to know more about that as well.
* all parts Motorcraft unless otherwise specified

Next steps
  • Bolt on the four 10mm "tunnel" bolts
  • Replace green connector to fuse box
  • Replace driver's side console kick plate
  • Replace blower motor electrical connector
  • Replace vacuum line behind glove box
  • Replace electrical connector to blue plastic box 
  • and so forth... 
Not sure I will finish it all on Tuesday night. 

Sunday, September 23, 2012

Heater core repair, day one

Adding an account of my experience to those of others who have repaired Ford Escort heater cores.

Background
  • Ford (Mazda?) engineers buried the Escort heater core under the dashboard, making replacement a time- and labor-intensive process
  • Engine coolant heated to ~82 C (~180 F) flows through the heater core, warming the air blowing into the cabin
  • I paid a mechanic at The Car Czar in Citrus Heights $500 to swap out the heater core in mid-2007...they seemed to do a poor job:
    • cracked the dash in multiple places...probably inevitable, but they did not even mention it
    • messed up the heater control cables so I have to throw the control really far to the left to get vented air into the cabin
    • while taking apart the dash, I think i found a few things which look a bit odd, as well, like a vacuum hose not plugged in near the center console
  • Our car overheated at least two times this summer: (1) when the radiator fan died--we noticed boiling coolant exiting the coolant overflow reservoir and ended up towing the car home; and (2) when two fan relays failed during an evening drive to Berkeley--no coolant exiting the overflow reservoir, but very audible noise of boiling coolant in the overflow reservoir
  • After these repairs, we noticed our car losing coolant at an alarming rate, re-filling the reservoir every two weeks or so
  • A local mechanic diagnosed the problem as a heater core leak and helpfully bypassed the heater core for us
  • The mechanic estimated an ~$800 repair bill to replace the heater core: at least five hours of labor plus parts
  • Motivation to fix myself: saving money, cold of fall/winter approaching
  • This represents the most complicated auto repair I have undertaken
Preparation
  • I spent a lot of time reading through the FEOA forums, watching videos, taking notes, figuring out the trickiest parts, asking questions--I did not want to jump in and get stuck
  • I annotated RichPin06a's YouTube video as a guide multiple times...took notes, printed them, and used as a guide while in the car
  • I started late in the day--not the wisest decision, in retrospect, but I felt impatient to start ; o )
  • I initially took Trencher's advice and tried to remove the dash as a whole...then I lost heart as it got late, so I fell back on annotations from RichPin06a's video
Tools used
  • Motorcraft heater core (part #HC-8) - ~$50 from Rock Auto (link)
  • S & G Upholstery Clip Removal Tool (also known as a panel remover) - O'Reilly Auto Parts (link)
  • T20 Torx 3/8" socket (center defroster bezel screw)
  • 3/8" universal joint socket (center defroster bezel screw) - AutoZone (link)
  • 6" socket extension
  • 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm sockets (assorted bolts)
  • 18mm wrench (hood latch release nut)
  • 10 mm x 12 mm metric double flex head flare nut wrench (dash bolts under windshield) - AutoZone (link)
  • Generic LED work light
  • Generic extension cord
  • Needle nose pliers
  • Box cutter
  • Duct tape (tape screws/bolts to pieces they came from)
  • Mechanix Wear "The Original" gloves (saves my hands from trauma) - AutoZone (link)
  • Generic battery cable puller
  • Sharpie permanent marker (mark the HVAC cables)
  • Old, thick towel (lay equipment on)
  • Zip ties (tie back speedometer cable to battery cage, and so forth)
  • Written annotated instructions from RichPin06a's YouTube video
  • Tin snips (optional; used to cut one wire ... see below)
Work log
  • Worked in my driveway from ~4:00-7:45 p.m., at which time I stopped, on account of darkness
  • I decided to tackle the three dash bolts under the defroster bezel as soon as possible, to see whether I had the right tools
  • It turns out I did not--the 3/8" universal joint socket I had, combined with the 3/8"-to-1/4" converter socket, plus the 10mm socket, did not fit.
  • After a bit of playing, I could see that a 1/4" universal joint socket plus the 10mm socket also would not fit
  • I restored the speedometer cable and negative battery cable and drove to a local parts store
  • After showing an attendant the location of the bolt, he recommended the 10 mm x 12 mm metric double flex head flare nut wrench...a quick check showed it as a workable, albeit tedious solution
  • Total time away from repairs: ~15-20 minutes
  • Ran into a snag with the steering wheel shroud cover...missed one of the screws but it all came apart with nothing worse than a few scrapes
  • I found the three 10mm dash bolts on each side of the dash tightened too tight and slightly stripped.
    • I think I stripped my 10mm socket, so I switched over to a 3/8" socket
    • This worked for a few bolts, until I think I stripped that one too... 
    • I finally ended up using the next size down SAE socket, which just fit onto the 10mm bolt...that finally worked to loosen the last bolt
  • I missed a connector on the passenger side 
  • About ten years ago, I swapped out the stock bumper and added a Ford Escort GT bumper, which supports fog lights. 
    • As a part of this swap, I investigated the stock GT fog lamp wiring and mirrored the wiring configuration in my LX, running a wire through the passenger sidewall and across to the driver-side fog-light switch
    • Unfortunately, I soldered the fog lamp wiring in such a way which prevented me from easily removing the dash
    • I simply snipped the wire and will re-solder as part of the second half
  • I think one of the driver-side dash bolts may have dropped into the side...cannot remember
  • Darkness increases the difficulty of everything...so does sitting in stressful positions
  • When I pulled out the HVAC Outlet Duct Extension Center (Motorcraft part #18C505), I saw it had a light layer of coolant - yuck
  • The inside of the heater box (HVAC Heater Assembly, Motorcraft part #18478) was coated with white residue--when coolant boils off, it typically produces white smoke
  • Pulled out the heater core, sans one outlet tube--I think my mechanic broke it off, which might explain the source of the leak, if it had weakened the outlet tube
  • The foam looked a bit gross, but reused it as best as I could on the new heater core
  • Reinserted the heater core into the heater box
  • Decided this represented a good stopping point
  • Dragged all the parts into the garage and locked the rest in the car
Next steps
  • If possible, I prefer to replace the stripped dash bolts...probably need special bolts to withstand proper torque...probably something to do later.
  • Purchase replacement 10mm and 3/8" sockets
  • Fix HVAC heater control cables so they work as intended
  • Re-solder cut wire...investigate way to resolder as part of the fog-light switch wiring harness
  • Take my time and ensure everything goes back together right
  • Probably will take a good part of Monday and Tuesday night
  • Investigate why one of the blower motor's contacts in the wiring harness connector seems corroded...something to mention to the mechanic
  • Zip-tie under-the-hood light to the hood
  • Replace air filter
  • Clean seats and carpets

Celebrated with a Ace Pumpkin Cider.

Tuesday, September 18, 2012

Errata - Configuring Debian GNU/Linux 6.0.5 "squeeze"

Some post-install configurations.

2012-09-18

Experimenting with text editors. Only too late do I realize Notepad++ does not have a GNU/Linux port. : o (

Geany
  • sudo apt-get install geany
  • sudo apt-get install geany-plugins
  • On squeeze, this translates to 0.19.1 : o )
  • Latest version as of this writing: 1.22
SciTE (SCIntilla based Text Editor)
  • sudo apt-get install scite
  • On squeeze, this translates to 2.03 : o )
  • Latest version as of this writing: 3.2.2
Both based on the Scintilla engine.

2012-10-01

Installing wireless.
  • sudo apt-get install firmware-ipw2x00 (via)
  • sudo /sbin/modprobe -r ipw2100 ; sudo /sbin/modprobe ipw2100
  • sudo iwconfig
  • sudo eth1 up
Success : o )

2012-10-09

Headphone jack sensing 
  • System > Preferences > Sound
  • Preferences
  • Select option "Headphone jack Sense"; this enables new Volume Control window tab, "Switches"
  • Select tab "Switches"
  • Check option "Headphone jack Sense"
The headphone jack now disables the speakers when I plug in headphones and re-enables them when I remove it.

2012-10-18

GCC

sudo apt-get install gcc

Install Citrix Receiver (via)
Filezilla

sudo apt-get install filezilla (via)

2012-11-06

Google Chrome fonts

apt-get install ttf-arphic-uming ttf-wqy-zenhei ttf-sazanami-mincho ttf-sazanami-gothic ttf-unfonts-core xfonts-kaname (via)

Had to force-quit Google Chrome before these took effect: killall chrome

2012-12-09

Keyboard key mappings for Apple A1314 Bluetooth keyboard

I want to remap the following six keycodes:
  1. Right-Command  = Compose
  2. Right-Option = AltGr
  3. Left-Command + Right-Arrow = End
  4. Left-Command + Left-Arrow = Home
  5. Left-Command + Up-Arrow = Page-Up
  6. Left-Command + Down-Arrow = Page-Down
Via:

Used command xev and obtained keycodes:
  • Super_R (Right-Command) = 134
  • Alt_R (Right-Option) = 108
  • Super_L (Left-Command) = 133
  • Left = 113
  • Right = 114
  • Up = 111
  • Down = 116
Then:
  • sudo xmodmap -e "keycode 108 = Delete"
  • sudo xmodmap -e "keycode 134 = Delete"
  • sudo xmodmap -e "keycode 113 = Left NoSymbol Home Home"
  • sudo xmodmap -e "keycode 114 = Right NoSymbol End End"
  • sudo xmodmap -e "keycode 111 = Up NoSymbol Page_Up Page_Up"
  • sudo xmodmap -e "keycode 116 = Down NoSymbol Page_Down Page_Down"
  • xmodmap -pke > ~/.Xmodmap
  • echo "xmodmap .Xmodmap" > ~/.xinitrc
Via

Make Super_L a Mode_switch key:
  • sudo xmodmap -e "add mod1 = Alt_L Meta_L Alt_R"
  • sudo xmodmap -e "add mod4 = Super_R Hyper_L"
  • sudo xmodmap -e "keysym Super_L = Mode_switch"
Make the changes permanent:
  • echo "add mod1 = Alt_L Meta_L Alt_R" >> ~/.Xmodmap
  • echo "add mod3 = Mode_switch" >> ~/.Xmodmap
  • echo "add mod4 = Super_R Hyper_L" >> ~/.Xmodmap
  • echo "keysym Super_L = Mode_switch" >> ~/.Xmodmap
To reset back to defaults:

setxkbmap -layout dvorak

Note: apparently, setxkbmap represents the new thing...no time to continue this evening but planting a seed for next time to see if I can get the above settings the same in a simpler format.
UPDATE:

Found some time on Feb 17-18, 2013, to return to this issue:
  • By default, I discovered some mappings:
    • Fn+Left = Home
    • Fn+Right = End
    • Fn+Up = Page-Up
    • Fn+Down = Page-Down
    • Fn+Delete = Delete (by default, Delete seems to really mean Backspace)
  • /usr/share/X11/xkb/ and subdirectories rules and symbols seem relevant, as background info
  • Debian stores keyboard layouts in /usr/share/X11/xkb/symbols/
  • I inadvertently chose model "macbook78"...however, via, doing so tells X to look in /usr/share/X11/xkb/symbols/macintosh_vndr for keyboard layouts and variants...none of which seem to support AltGR. Switching back to default model pc
Finally got things working:

setxkbmap \
  -model pc105 \
  -layout 'us(dvorak-intl),us(alt-intl)' \
  -option \
  -option grp:alt_shift_toggle \
  -option compose:rwin

This sets up two variants which I can toggle between using Ctrl+Shift. It uses dvorak-intl by default, which gets me the AltGr (i.e., Alternate Graphic) key and all the cool characters that go with it, like "¬" and "é". It also sets up the Compose key, which allows me to easily write ½ and ¢ and ©. : o ) I also added in variant alt-intl so other people can use QWERTY on an as-needed basis.

As I did with the VLC setup, below, I decided to copy/paste a current version of variant dvorak-intl from X.Org configuration file ¨symbols/us¨...it seems the one which shipped with Debian Squeeze represents a version quite a few years out-of-date.

I still have a few things to clean up, but I think I have figured out the core issues surrounding keyboards models, layouts, and variants, and how X.Org implements them.

Hmm, via:

cp /etc/xdg/xfce4/xinitrc ~/.config/xfce4/xinitrc

Running a script when initializing X.

I am not sure setxkbmap will help:
  • /usr/share/X11/xkb/symbols/us maps symbols to keys...not so good for multi-key presses
  • /usr/share/X11/xkb/rules/base.lst specifies models, layouts, variants, and options
    • Options seem the most plausibly helpful
    • Unfortunately, limited to switching between layouts, selecting level3 mode, control key positions, keypad settings, caps lock behavior, altwin behavior, 
Reverted dvorak-intl's handling of key D01:
//key <AD01> { [dead_acute, dead_diaeresis, apostrophe, quotedbl ] };
key <AD01> { [  apostrophe, quotedbl, dead_acute, dead_diaeresis ] };
Got it working with a custom type, inserted into file /usr/share/X11/xkb/types/extra :

    // Custom type to allow shift select to/from end of line
    type "THREE_LEVEL_SHIFT_SELECT" {
        modifiers = Shift+Control+LevelThree;
        map[None] = Level1;
        map[Shift] = Level2;
        preserve[Shift] = Shift;
        map[LevelThree] = Level3;
        map[Shift+LevelThree] = Level3;
        map[Shift+Control+LevelThree] = Level3;
        level_name[Level1] = "Base";
        level_name[Level2] = "Alt Base";
        level_name[Level3] = "Level3";
    };

I modified /usr/share/X11/xkb/symbols/us, appending the following lines to dvorak-intl:
key <LEFT> { type[Group1] = "THREE_LEVEL_SHIFT_SELECT", symbols[Group1] = [ Left, Left, Home] };
key <RGHT> { type[Group1] = "THREE_LEVEL_SHIFT_SELECT", symbols[Group1] = [ Right, Right, End] };
Thanks to Andreas for pointing me in the right direction.


2013-02-01

Google Chrome updates for flash

Using System >Administration > Synaptic Package Manager, uninstalled google-chrome-stable and installed google-chrome-unstable.

I have had some periodic issues with Adobe Flash, so upgrading in an attempt to resolve that specific issue.

After updating, Google Chrome reports, "Google Chrome is no longer updating because your operating system is obsolete." : o ) Brilliant. At least Adobe Flash works again.
Also: sudo apt-get install flashplugin-nonfree

2013-02-02

VLC installation and configuration

Did this so I can watch YouTube videos at increased speed.

Will space you all the gory details, but eventually got VLC installed and working to play YouTube videos. By default, the Debian Squeeze repository includes VLC 1.1.3...I eventually got the VLC 2.0.3 backports version working, but even this required a configuration file update from the nightly build. A pain in the butt, for sure, but it works, now....

The VLC web site helpfully shows how to get a more recent version.

sudo vim /etc/apt/sources.list
sudo apt-get update
sudo apt-get -t squeeze-backports install vlc

Unfortunately, VLC 2.0.3 needs an updated youtube.luac file....

Via this thread, found the VLC nightly builds: http://nightlies.videolan.org/

Downloaded the source via wget:

cd tmp && wget http://nightlies.videolan.org/build/source/vlc-2.1.0-20130203-0012.tar.xz

sudo apt-get install xz
sudo apt-get install lua5.1

cd tmp && xz -d /tmp/vlc-2.1.0-20130203-0012.tar.xz
tar xvf vlc-2.1.0-20130203-0012.tar
sudo cp vlc-2.1.0-git/share/lua/playlist/youtube.lua /usr/lib/vlc/lua/playlist/
cd /usr/lib/vlc/lua/playlist/
sudo luac -o youtube.luac youtube.lua
sudo rm /usr/lib/vlc/lua/playlist/youtube.lua

Tools > Preferences > Video > Output , then set it to "X11 video output (XCB)"

Tested on video 

All good : o )

2013-02-16

Amarok 2.4.1


sudo apt-get -t squeeze-backports install amarok

Adobe Reader 9.5.3

cd ~/Downloads && wget ftp://ftp.adobe.com/pub/adobe/reader/unix/9.x/9.5.3/enu/AdbeRdr9.5.3-1_i386linux_enu.deb

sudo dpkg -i AdbeRdr9.5.3-1_i386linux_enu.deb

2013-02-24

Volume control sound theme

Volume Control, then select tab Sound Theme, select Default alert sound and checkbox "Enable window and button sounds"

Ghostview

Installed GhostView, via

sudo apt-get install gv

2013-02-28

clisp

sudo apt-get install clisp

2013-03-03

DVD CSS

My neighbor came over ancd attempted to play a NetFlix DVD (The Crash of 1929) but neither Totem Movie Player 2.30.2 nor VLC media player 2.0.3 could play it.

Via:

sudo apt-get install libavcodec-extra-53
wget http://www.deb-multimedia.org/pool/non-free/w/w32codecs/w32codecs_20110131-0.1_i386.deb
sudo dpkg -i w32codecs_20110131-0.1_i386.deb

wget http://www.deb-multimedia.org/pool/main/libd/libdvdcss/libdvdcss2_1.2.10-0.3_i386.deb

sudo dpkg -i libdvdcss2_1.2.10-0.3_i386.deb

After this, the DVD played just fine.

2013-03-17

curl

Via:

sudo apt-get install curl

2013-03-25

icedtea plugin


sudo apt-get install icedtea6-plugin

Installing so I can run the VeriSign SSL certificate checker

2013-04-20

java


sudo apt-get install sun-java6-jre


Monday, September 17, 2012

Divine Comedy

Nel mezzo del cammin di nostra vita
mi ritrovai per una selva oscura,
ché la diritta via era smarrita.

Midway upon the journey of our life
I found myself within a forest dark,
For the straightforward pathway had been lost.


Via

Saturday, September 15, 2012

Surewest Fiber to the Home (FTTH): Allied Telesis AT-iMG646BD-ON Active Ethernet fiber intelligent Multiservice Gateway (iMG)

In August 2007, we switched to Surewest Fiber (18 Mbps down/up) for phone and internet connectivity.

Surewest techs wall-mounted an Allied Telesis AT-iMG646BD-ON Active Ethernet fiber intelligent Multiservice Gateway (iMG) on the side of our duplex:
"With full routing and multicast capabilities, the AT-iMG646BD simultaneously delivers high quality IP Video, up to four lines of VoIP, and differentiated data services over 10/100T x 6 ports.Security for the service provider and subscriber are ensured through stateful inspection firewall and NAT. The AT-iMG646BD-ON accelerates network convergence through proven interoperability with major softswitch vendors using MGCP, SIP, and H.323 VoIP protocols. Designed for one- or two phase-installation, the AT-iMG646BD-ON has integrated fiber drop cable termination and fiber splice protection. A single fiber uplink ensures efficient use of network infrastructure."
We received:

  • Model AT-iMG646BD-ON
  • S/N: A03870G072300460 C
  • Manufacture date: June 2007
LED's:

  • Pwr: Lit ("The gateway is receiving power and the voltage is within an acceptable range.")
  • Syst: Unlit ("The unit is working normally.")
  • WAN: Lit ("A WAN link has been established.")
  • VOIP: Flashing ("The VoIP network is operating.")

The tech markered "Paul 8-6-07" inside the box.

The tech secured the outer enclosure with a standard slotted screw and the inner enclosure with a hex security screw.

Our setup had four RJ-11 (phone) pigtail plugs and six RJ-45 (ethernet) pigtail plugs. RJ-11 plug #1 was unplugged, with one twisted-pair from our office's CAT cable plugged into it, and two other twisted pairs plugged into the #1 RJ-45 port.

Large natural number

Via:

"You can write any valid computer program as a string of finite length from a finite alphabet. This means the set of programs is countable. (This should not be surprising--everything is ones and zeroes, after all, so you always end up mapping your program to a really large natural number to use it.)"

Friday, September 14, 2012

Effort monitoring

Had no idea:

"My advice is to get yourself tested, supplement, and continue testing. http://wellnessfx.com is a great service for minimum effort monitoring. Alternatively you can use cash-based services like this to order easily and without a doctor: http://www.mdlabtests.com/Vitamin-Tests/081950-Vitamin-D-25-Hydroxy.html "

Thursday, September 13, 2012

Day five - Configuring Debian GNU/Linux 6.0.5 "squeeze"

Re-installed Debian GNU/Linux 6.0.5 "squeeze" this evening and went through all four days of documented changes in about one hour. What a difference good documentation makes.

The install process went through it's normal hiccup with detecting network hardware...I modified check-missing-hardware as before, then it seemed to get stuck again during detection of the hard drive. I switched to Ctrl + Alt + F4 to watch the system messages, and noticed the kernel time out several times in a row. Then the install started moving forward again.

Investigating why my hard drive seems to continuously click when parking the head.

Wednesday, September 12, 2012

Labelers

Slowly going through GTD...reviewing labelers:
  • Brother Desktop Office Labeler with Carry Case (PT2030VP) (link)
    • $55
    • Wastes tape
    • Includes A/C adapter
  • Epson LabelWorks LW-400 Label Maker (C51CB70010) (link)
    • ~$40
    • Efficient use of tape
    • A/C adapter not included - $25 for a 6.5V, 1.5A adapter (link)
  • Epson LabelWorks LW-300 Label Maker (C51CB69010) (link)
    • ~$30
    • Efficient use of tape
    • A/C adapter not included - $25 for a 6.5V, 1.5A adapter (link)
    • Basically the same as the LW-400 without a backlit display and a few other bits.
I feel such frustration trying to find a label maker which meets my needs:
  • AC adapter/rechargable
  • Efficient use of tape (scratch Brother)
  • Low cost for replacement tape (anyone?)
  • Low cost for the initial unit
David Allen uses the Brother PT-18R, which does not meet my needs for initial cost (as of this writing, ~$100) or efficient tape use, but it does use desk space efficiently and comes with an AC adapter.

At this point, I will probably go with the Epson LabelWorks family...not sure the LW-400 really warrants the extra money, for my needs. The $25 LabelWorks AC adapter seems really over-priced...Epson publishes the specification for the unit in the user manual: 6.5V, 1.5A (~10W). They do not specify the DC plug, though.

A quick read on coaxial power connectors seems to indicate maybe an EIAJ connector.

Tuesday, September 11, 2012

Day Three - Configuring Debian GNU/Linux 6.0.5 "squeeze"

More pedestrian things, tonight.

Configure vim colors

Via my 2008 post:
  • sudo cp /usr/share/vim/vim72/colors/koehler.vim /usr/share/vim/vim72/colors/koehler.vim.bak
  • I did not actually finish this one...I think I changed it when I edited software....
Configure vim  .vimrc
  • From my 2009 post, copied and pasted into ~/.vimrc .
  • Historical note: the "rc" in ".vimrc" derives from "runcom", from the MIT CTSS system, ca. 1965. More.
Configure GNOME Terminal 2.30.2 colors

Via my 2008 post:
  • Font: Terminal, 6-point or Monospace Regular 10 pt.
  • Default Foreground Color="0,255,0"
  • Default Bold Foreground="255,255,255"
  • Default Background="0,55,0"
  • Default Bold Background="85,85,85"
  • Lines of scrollback: 9999
  • Rows: 100
  • Columns: 100
Not sure how to resize automatically to 80x43?
  • Using gconf-editor does not seem to work
  • Changed command of Terminal to "gnome-terminal --geometry=80x43"
Install Eclipse Extensible Tool Platform and Java IDE 
via Software Center
  • Search for Eclipse Extensible Tool Platform and Java IDE
  • Select, then select button Install
  • Done; close Software Center

Paw prints in the concrete

Saw some paw prints in the concrete near Southside Park today. : o )

I also noticed a small sticker from Sacramento graffiti artist cuppakafka:


and another from the web site http://www.crimethinc.com/tools/stickers.html


but not as great as my all-time favorite piece of graffiti, from West Sacramento...the Nor Door : o )


Monday, September 10, 2012

Day two - Configuring Debian GNU/Linux 6.0.5 "squeeze"

Add image of Carl Sagan to Cosmos screensaver

  • cd /usr/share/backgrounds/cosmos && sudo wget http://apod.nasa.gov/apod/image/9612/sagan_uc_big.jpg
  • Because...Carl Sagan...Cosmos
Investigate clicking when hard drive parks head
  • Via this post, I hear a clicking when the hard drive parks it's head.
  • Quiet, but noticeable
  • sudo hdparm -B 254 /dev/sda
  • Still hearing the hard drive parking it's head
  • ATA FUJITSU MHT2040A 006C PQ : 0 ANSI: 5
  • Install smartmontools package via Software Center
  • Ran sudo smartctl -A /dev/sda ... not sure how to parse the results
  • Edited /etc/hdparm.conf 
    • sudo vim /etc/hdparm.conf 
    • apm = 255
    • apm_battery = 255
    • sudo update-rc.d hdparm defaults
  • ?

Configure printing
  • System > Administration > Printing
  • Add > Printer
  • Expand "Network Printer"
  • Select "HP LaserJet CP1525nw"...popup "Searching for drivers" appears
  • Select "Select printer from database", then "HP", then button "Forward"
  • Select model "Color LaserJet cp1518ni" and Drivers "HP Color LaserJet cp1518ni hpijs pcl3, 3.10.6 [en] (recommended), then select button "Forward"
  • Set Printer Name = HP-Color-LaserJet-cp1525nw, Description = HP Color LaserJet cp1525nw, then select button "Apply"
  • Authenticate to complete the test, if necessary
  • Print test page...prints successfully in color

Heater core

Replaced the stock heater core in late July 2007, after 11 years. Today, roughly five years later, my mechanic told me today the replacement has failed.

Reading through the Ford Escort forums how-to's...wow, about as bad as I remember it from reading about it years ago.

Smart ideas

  • Wear gloves...e.g., http://www.mechanix.com/automotive/the-original-glove
  • Use something like a small bbq-fork to pry off plastic parts
  • Tape screws for each panel to the panel itself
  • Put painted marks on the cable to help with re-installing the heater cables
  • Pull up on parking brake
  • Put some grease on the speedometer head where the cable clips in because Ford did a poor job of doing this at the factory. the result is that the needle would jump all over the place on these cars.
  • Burp the coolant system
  • Lay a thick towel or blanket across the e-brake and seat belt components when you remove and lay your dash upside down across them.
  • Do not get a replacement core from AutoZone as it is inferior core. I say this as i am about to do this job again on this car. 
  • Get some angled wrenches and screw drivers if your going to do it because some of the bolts/screws at the base of the windsheild are a _________. (Insert Favorite Words Here)
  • its important not to rush when doing larger projects and remember to plan ahead.
  • re-secure (zip-tie) the speedometer cable back to the battery tray as it were originally
  • Replace heater blower motor
  • Check the state of the evaporator core
  • Tighten up all the fasteners you can find on the removed dash assembly
  • Power wash the seats and carpet, lube up pedal pivots and cables, wash all the plastic bits that come off and clean the inside of the windshield. 
  • Pulling the dash really is a breeze. If you don't follow the manual. If you disconnet the heater/ac controls, radio antenna, speedo cable. You can then remove a combo of 13 to 14 bolts and nuts. When the dash is pulled forward you can disconnect 2 multi connector plugs and the speedo from the cluster and pull the dash as a whole. It takes doing it the hard way once to curse ford, chiltons, and haynes for instructing you the wrong way of doing it.
Videos

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W0qJhyNRHx0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dh8uFGud70c

Preventative maintenance

Backflushing: "I think doing regular radiator service helped keep it alive. Doing back flushing by unplugging the heater core from the engine, then attaching a hose to it to get all the gunk out. Did that every 3 years to the car."

Alternatives

Via Youtube comment [sic]: "bout a cheap heater core from napa, Cut a hole in the firewall just about 3/4'' all around the edges of where it will sets, and replaced it using rubber gasket material and 16 ga. steel to cover the hole with 4 small self tapping screws for when it happens again, be damned if i'm gunna go thru all that work atleast twice in the life of this car. Turns a 4-5 hr. job into about 20 min. and there is no problems at all." ...cordless spiral saw? Heh. Someone did this with die grinder and cutoff wheels....

Sunday, September 09, 2012

Configuring Debian GNU/Linux 6.0.5 "squeeze"

OK, I'm in....

17:42

Install Chromium via Software Center
  • Select Internet > Web Browsers
  • Select Chromium > Install
  • Done; close Software Center
Configuring Chromium
  • Add icon to my Desktop: 
    • Applications > Internet
    • Right-select on Chromium and select "Add this launcher to Desktop"
  • Incognito mode by default:
    • sudo vim /etc/chromium-browser/default
    • add "--incognito"
    • Close
  • Run Chromium
  • Sync Chromium
    • Wrench > Options > Personal Stuff > Sync > Set Up Sync...
    • Log-in to Google Account
    • On screen Configure sync, select "Keep everything synced", then select "OK"
    • Error appears: "The sync server is busy, please try again later." x_x
    • Chromium Version 6.0.472.63 (59945) Built on Debian 6.0, running on Debian 6.0.5
    • about:sync
      • Authenticated null
      • Last Synced null
      • null null
    • Via this post from Feb 2012: "The problem is that the chromium version is too old." Ah.
    • From Wikipedia: "Chrome 6 was released in both a stable and beta version on 2 September 2010 as version 6.0.472.53" and "Chromium 23.0 was released on 9 August 2012, with the initial release version 23.0.1231.0." Ouch. So I have a two-year old browser.
    • Since Debian will not update Chromium except for security/severe bugs, I am stuck with version 6.
Install Google Chrome via downloaded deb package
  • Download Debian package from  https://www.google.com/intl/en/chrome/browser/
  • System > Administration > Synaptic Package Manager
    • Error: "Failed to run /usr/sbin/synaptic as user root. Wrong password."
    • Ah, via this post, it attempts to run "su-to-root -X -c /usr/sbin/synaptic", which fails because I locked the root account
    • Hmm..."su-to-root -p "k" -X -c /usr/sbin/synaptic" returns error "Starting without administrative privileges. You will not be able to apply any changes. But you can still export the marked changes or create a download script for them."
    • It took some digging, but I discovered the answer: I changed the Debian menu item command from su-to-root -X -p "user" -c /usr/sbin/synaptic to gksu -S /usr/sbin/synaptic (see the link for details)
  • Cannot figure out how to install downloaded package through Synaptic Package Manager
  • Install via command line instead
    • Via this post
      • sudo dpkg -i /home/k/repo/google-chrome-stable_current_i386.deb
      • sudo apt-get -f install , which installed libcurl3 (7.21.0-2.1+squeeze2) and libssh2-1 (1.2.6-1)
    • Applications > Internet > Google Chrome
  • It works! Version 21.0.1180.89
Configuring Google Chrome
  • Add icon to my Desktop: 
    • Applications > Internet
    • Right-select on Google Chrome and select "Add this launcher to Desktop"
  • Incognito mode by default:
    • Right-select on Desktop Google Chrome launcher, then select Properties
    • Add "--incognito" to the end of the text in text box "Command"
    • Close
  • Sync Google Chrome
    • Wrench > Settings > Sign In > Sign in to Chrome
    • Log-in to Google Account
    • Select button "OK, sync everything"
  • Install LastPass extension
    • Download extension https://download.lastpass.com/lpchrome_linux.crx
    • Hmm...Google Chrome reports message, "Extensions, apps, and user scripts can only be added from the Chrome Web Store." 
    • Wrench > Tools > Extensions
    • Search the Chrome Web Store for LastPass
    • Install the LastPass extension
    • Wrench > Tools > Extensions
    • Select "Allow in Incognito"
Enabling NTP Support
  • System > Administration > Time and Date
  • Select the shield icon to authenticate
  • Select pull-down list "Configuration" and choose "Keep synchronized with Internet servers"
  • Error appears: "NTP support is not installed. Please install and activate NTP support in the system to enable synchronization of your local time server with internet time servers."
  • Via this post: apt-get install ntp
  • Select pull-down list "Configuration" and choose "Keep synchronized with Internet servers"
  • Select time server tick.cs.unlv.edu (Las Vegas, USA) and ntp-0.cso.uiuc.edu (Illinois, USA)
Correcting root user setup
  • Well, shoot. It appears during installation I configured Debian with a separate root user and my user account without root privileges
  • Command sudo reports error "k is not in the sudoers file.  This incident will be reported." Heh.
  • Sudo means “substitute user do”. hmm.
  • Via this post
    • su root
    • visudo
    • add line "yourusername    ALL=(ALL) ALL"
    • save and exit
    • exit root account
    • sudo passwd -l root (lock the root account)
Set default editor to vim
  • vim ~/.bashrc
  • Append line: export EDITOR="vim"
Install vim
  • Oy
  • apt-get install vim

Debian GNU/Linux 6.0.5 "squeeze" install

After Debian GNU/Linux 5.0.10 "lenny" net install failed to detect my network hardware, I attempted to install the latest daily image of Debian GNU/Linux 6.0.5 "squeeze".

Via comment #35 of bug 681656, some users reported success using a daily image to work around an install bug in the latest stable release.

Downloaded the mini ISO from 2012-09-09 and burned to USB using program unetbootin.
  • Formatted USB 8GB pen drive as FAT32 using Red Hat Disk Utility 3.0.2
    • Format drive > Master Boot Record > Format
    • Create partition > FAT > Create (then wait for USB light to stop)
    • Mount volume
  • Unetbootin with ISO file mini.iso to /dev/sdb1 > OK
  • Reboot
  • Fails to detect network hardware
  • I edit /bin/check-missing-firmware, adding "exit 0" after #!/bin/sh
  • This successfully gets me past this stage
  • Installation continues
  • The installer hangs again ... I forget where
Two other options:
  1. Use alpha release
  2. Edit /bin/mountmedia 
I opt for #1, first, downloading the mini ISO from 2012-05-20 and burning to USB as above, then rebooting.
  • Edited /bin/check-missing-firmware, as before
  • Ran into missing kernel modules error after selecting squeeze or wheezy (no option for lenny) x_x ... going forward, it does not seem to detect the hard disk
  • Noted Ctrl+Alt+F4 reports "Failed to load tigon /tg3_ts05.bin"
  • Aborted
Researched and discovered this represents the Broadcom Tigon3 ethernet driver.
  • Per the firmware pagipw2100e, I downloaded the squeeze current non-free tarball to the root of the reformatted squeeze 2012-09-09 Mini ISO.
Then I noticed http://cdimage.debian.org/cdimage/unofficial/non-free/cd-including-firmware/current/i386/iso-cd/ ... trying this ISO first...re-formatted, re-imaged....
Honestly, at this point I do not remember what specifically happened; it froze again, I took down the following notes:
  • Error, "Firmware ipw2100-1.3.fw not available or load failed"
  • Edited /bin/check-missing-firmware, as before
  • Process /sbin/reopen-console /sbin/debian-installer exited...
  • Check hardware completes
  • Menu item disk-detect selected
  • "Detecting disks and all other hardware"
  • I Ctrl-C a few times, go back and forth between Ctrl+F4 (system messages), Ctrl-F3 (started a shell), and Ctrl-F1 (install screen)...
  • Next thing I know, the installer has started up the partitioner
  • And then I hit the screen which asked where to install...I took a deep breath, selected my primary drive, and went with it. It installed OK. Whole process took ~40 minutes.
Soo....

I'm in!





Debian GNU/Linux 5.0.10 "lenny" install

Installing Debian GNU/Linux 5.0.10 "lenny" on a HP compaq nc6000, p/n DE646AV.

Even though Debian GNU/Linux 6.0.5 "squeeze" was available, I opted for the previous release, in an attempt to avoid install error #681656.

Downloaded the netinst CD image (generally 135-175 MB) and burned to USB using program unetbootin.
  • Installed Unetbootin support package 7-zip
  • Formatted USB 8GB pen drive as FAT32 using Red Hat Disk Utility 3.0.2
    • Format drive > Master Boot Record > Format
    • Create partition > FAT > Create
    • Mount volume
  • Unetbootin with ISO file debian-5010-i386-netinst.iso to /dev/sdb1 > OK
  • Reboot
  • Fails to detect network hardware
I give up and try a workaround for Debian GNU/Linux 6.0.5 "squeeze": using the nightly builds.

Monday, September 03, 2012

Surewest speed test results

Switching to the Fusion Internet/Phone service via Cal.net ISP, so thought I would run Surewest one last time:

Download: 17.43 Mbit/s
Upload: 19.61 Mbit/s
Ping: 25ms

I have had outstanding service from Surewest for about five years. However, for our use cases, Surewest fiber seems to represent overkill...and we need to cut costs. This will decrease our annual internet bill by about half, or ~$500.

Sunday, September 02, 2012

Pear brandy

We visited Total Wine this evening and purchased the German-import "Fidelitas Williams Pear" pear brandy (~$27).

It burns and does not really taste much like pear...wondering if this represents a good/bad brandy.

Clear Creek Distillery in Portland, Oregon, makes a "eau de vie de poire": both with and without a pear in the bottle : o )
http://www.clearcreekdistillery.com/products/eaux-de-vie/pear-brandy/

They also have a $5 mini bottle sampler, which might give me an idea of how the good/bad nature of the German import.

Putting pears in the bottle
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kb5bcq5Y8jo

Eau De Vie Pear Brandy: A Personal Quest
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=stAR58RIMS4 

Surewest Sacramento alternatives

Looking for alternatives to our current Surewest fiber internet service (~$64/month; 18Mbps up/down) and phone (~$24/month; basic plus interstate).

Coastal Web Online : no
CalWeb Internet Services, Inc.: No
Sonic.net: Reports "Fusion appears to be available where you are located, but is offered through a relationship with local providers serving your area."
  • Spiral Fusion: Yes - $40/month 
  • Cal.net: Yes - $40/month 
  • Omsoft: Yes - $40/month 

Other

Clear Wireless Internet: no coverage